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2021 Cabernet Sauvignon, Moss Wood
Moss Wood was just the second winery in Margaret River when it was established in 1969, with Keith Mugford employed as its winemaker 10 years later purely on the basis of a telephone interview. Six years after that, Mugford bought the prope rty from founder Bill Pannell, and has been there ever since, turning it into an absolute benchmark for supremely elegant and ageworthy Western Australian Cabernet (it is one of just five to be rated ‘Exceptional’ in the latest Langton’s cl assification, the definitive arbiter of Australian wine). The 2021 vintage, containing a 4% dollop of Cabernet Franc, marries the plush approachability of modern-style Bordeaux with the structure and heft of an ageworthy classic.
£80.00 1 x Bottle (75 cl)
Tasting notes
Deep brick red hue. An intense array of primary fruit notes, including blueberries, raspberries, redcurrant, mulberry, plum and musk, as well as a touch of nutmeg, cinnamon and clove. Cabernet Sauvignon’s classic floral note of violets adds volume. The complexities in the background include cedar, tobacco and tar, the “cigar box” combination, plus some light toasty oak. The theme of the red and dark fruits continues on the palate, brimming with berry flavours. Bright acidity and soft, well-integrated, svelte, almost chocolate-like, tannins. The long finish whispers of star anise.
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Reviews
Vibrantly perfumed, with rose petal jam and bright red primary fruit fringed with dried eucalypt, sage, sea spray, clove, delicate spices and lightly toasted oak. Impressive fruit weight. Hums with energy. Tannins are ripe, firm, fine, almo st silky. Acid is balanced and lifted. Lacks some classic Margaret River Cabernet characters, but is filled with pleasure and life. Elegant and self-assured.
Cassandra Charlick
This engaging 2021 Cabernet Sauvignon appeals with its subtlety rather than raw power. Dried herbs, clay and blackcurrant are finely intertwined with French oak. Firm and mid-weight with a strong core, the Wilyabrup gravels emerge in flavor and texture to drive a strong, tension-filled finish. There's a lovely overall flow and energy. The finish is lovely.
Angus Hughson
Western Australia
Producing just 2% of the national total, Western Australia is home to some of the most iconic wineries and in Margaret River, a world class producing area. The state is vast (a quarter the size of Europe) but sparsely populated (more people live in Rome) and the wine industry is concentrated in the south-western corner. Until the 1970s, the industry here was all concentrated in the baking hot Swan Valley to the north of Perth, where the country’s best-selling white wine, Houghton’s White Burgundy, was made. Margaret River, around three hours south of Perth and cooled by Ocean winds, was first planted in 1967 at Vasse Felix, swiftly followed by Moss Wood and Cullens. Others, most notably Leeuwin, swiftly followed and after the expansion of the 1990s, there are now nearly 200 wineries here. The region’s fame is built on Cabernet Sauvignon, of which it makes most of the country’s finest examples, along with world class Chardonnay, although it also produces fine shiraz and Semillon Sauvignon blends. Gerographe, to the north of Margaret River is warmer and makes wines of some power, especially from vineyards further inland. To the far south is Great Southern, encompassing sub-regions Frankland River, Mount Barker, Denmark, Albany and Porongarup. This is a diverse region, but these are some of Australia’s coolest vineyards and wines from here have a fragrance and freshness that is unusual for the country. Fine elegant Cabernet racy Chardonnay and peppery Shiraz can be found here. Pemberton and Manjimup lie between Margaret River and Great Southern and are relatively cool and damp. Neither is especially significant in volume terms, but some decent Pinot Noir and Chardonnay and very good shiraz is made here, in a cooler climate style.
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