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2023 Canna Torta Bianco, Podere Le Ripi
Set in the south of Montalcino, Podere le Ripi is owned by Francesco Illy of the coffee dynasty, who took over in the late 1990s with a dream of transforming the former sheep farm into a self-sufficient, regenerative property embracing all forms of agriculture. Wine came later within this vision but soon became the main focus, largely through conventional, Sangiovese-based wines. This, however, is a little different, being made as a ‘natural’ wine with the oft-maligned grape variety Trebbiano Toscana (aka Ugni Blanc), fermented in terracotta and bottled without fining or filtering, with no added sulhpur. It boasts more lift and fruit than many such wines. The name, meanwhile, translates as ‘crooked barrel’, and is a nod to Illy’s gamekeeper’s ineffectual attempts to rid the vineyards of the wild boar who would munch through the grapes.
£29.95 1 x Bottle (75 cl)
Tasting notes
An amphora aged orange wine that manages to have classic citrus rind flavours and a bite of tannin, whilst remaining fresh and laden with fruit. Pale golden in colour, the nose is savoury and bright, with apple skin, peach and waxy notes. T he palate is clean and fresh, with a complex savoury character, fresh apple, lemon and orchard fruit flavours, a hint of herbs and a dry textural finish which lingers, developing nutty notes.
At a glance
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region
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Tuscany
Tuscany (Toscana in Italian) is only responsible for around 5% of Italian wine production, but it is by far the most famous region internationally and is dis-proportionally represented on wine lists around the globe. This is perhaps mostly a relic of the importance of the region, both culturally, economically and politically throughout the medieval and renaissance periods and the fact that this has led it to be a tourist destination of worldwide repute, helping cement awareness of the local wines. Its reputation has also been helped by the (relatively recent) abundance of truly fine wines made here. It is the most red region of any in the country with a whopping 87% of production being either red or rosato (double the national average) with most of its iconic wines being made wholly (or mostly) from Sangiovese, which covers 62% of the vineyard area. The viticultural history of the region dates back to the Etruscan Empire which ruled this part of Italy from the 8th Century BC until it was absorbed by Rome in the 3rd Century. The importance of Tuscany as a cultural and political centre was firmly established in the middle ages and Florence was a key centre for the trading of wine (and not just local wine). By the 14th Century, much of the production was white and often sweet, with the finest wine of the region made in San Gimignano. It is around this time that the acidic variety Vernacchia, still associated with this hilltop tourist trap, first appears by name. Chianti is also first mentioned around this time, but it was a white wine. Right up until the 1950’s, the region was dominated by a few huge estates, owned by the church or local merchant families that were farmed on a share-cropping basis. As this system collapsed after the Second World War, investment ceased and the vineyards fell into a state of disrepair. By the 1970’s, outside investment had begun as plots were bought up, but sadly the clones planted were often chosen for volume, not quality and whilst Chianti gained worldwide fame, the product could not be called a quality one. Throughout the 1970s, 1980s and into the 1990s, Tuscany saw an overhaul in almost all areas: the creation of new DOC and DOCGs, including their expansion and refinement; the planting of French varieties; outside investment in properties; and, a general increase in quality across the board. There are 41 DOCs and 11 DOCGs in Tuscany, many of which are insignificant and rarely used, with many producers preferring the IGT Toscana for wines not from the more recognisable areas. Those considered to be of greatest importance are: Chianti DOCG/Chianti Classico DOCG; Brunello di Montalcino DOCG / Rosso di Montalcino DOC; Vino Nobile di Montepulciano DOCG / Rosso di Montepulciano DOC; Morellino di Scansano DOCG; Bolgheri DOC / Bolgheri Sassicaia DOC; and, Vernaccia di San Gimignano DOCG.

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